How To Grow A Backyard Fruit Tree Orchard

Backyard orchard culture is NOT the same asvigorous new growth. Then two or three times per
commercial orchard culture. When planting fruit treesyear, cut back or remove limbs or branches to
commercially the goal of a fruit tree orchard is toaccomplish the following:
maximize volume of harvest per tree and harvest a1. First year:a) At planting time, bare root trees
single variety over a short amount of time.may be topped at fifteen inches to force very low
Homeowners, on the other hand, prefer to have asscaffold limbs, or higher (up to four feet) depending
long a harvest time as possible, with the moston existing side limbs and desired tree form. After
varieties possible in their limited space. Commercialthe spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back
orchards also are spaced to accommodate tractorsby half (late April/early May). In late summer (late
and require the use of 12' picking ladders.August/mid September) cut the subsequent growth
Homeowners can plant much more densely andback by half.b) When selecting containerized trees in
through summer pruning, keep trees to heightsspring or summer, look for well-placed low scaffold
harvestable without the use of ladders.limbs. Cut back new growth by half and then again in
Backyard orchard culture is the practice of highlate summer.c) 2/3/4 trees in one hole. At planting
density planting of successive ripening varieties usingtime, cut back all trees to the same height. Cut back
summer pruning to control size of trees. High densitynew growth by half in spring again in late summer as
can mean planting more than one tree (2,3, or 4) perabove. In the first two years especially, cut back
planting hole, planting several trees in a hedgerow,vigorous varieties as often as necessary. Do not
planting multiple grafted trees, planting espaliers orallow any variety to dominate and shade out others.
any combination of these techniques. Planting fourSecond year: Pruning is same as first year-cut back
varieties in one hole will give you 10-12 weeks ofnew growth by half in spring and late summer. For
harvest (instead of 2-3 weeks) in the space of asome vigorous varieties, pruning three times a year
single tree.may bethe easiest way to manage size -spring, early
Close (high density) planting also has the benefit ofsummer and late summer.
restricting trees' vigor which also helps keep their size1.   Third year: Chose height and don't let the tree
under control. Another benefit is better crossget any taller. Tree height is the decision of the
pollination which means better fruit production ofpruner . When there are vigorous shoots above the
apples, pears, cherries, and plums. Close plantingchosen height cut them back or remove them.
works best when rootstocks of similar vigor are2.  When pruning, remove any broken limbs and cut
planted together. For example, for a four-in-one-holeback diseased limbs well below any signs of the
planting, four trees on Citation would be easier todisease.
maintain than a combination of one on Mazzard, one3.  The smaller one, two and three year old
on Lovell, one on Citation and one on M-27.branches that bear fruit should have at least 6 inches
Small trees yield crops of manageable size and areof free space all around. This means that where two
easier to spray, thin, net and harvest than largebranches begin close together, then grow in the
trees. Plus, small trees can be planted more closelysame direction, one hould be removed. When limbs
together affording the opportunity for more treescross one another, one or both should be cut back
and longer harvests. Do not depend on rootstocks toor removed.
control size. Rootstocks are chosen for their soil or4. When removing large limbs, first saw part way
climate adaptation, their disease or pest resistance orthrough the limb on the under side so it won't tear as
their tendency to induce early fruit bearing.it comes off. Don't make the cut flush with the
The best way to keep your fruit trees less than 10'trunk, be sure to leave a collar (a short stub).
is by pruning especially summer pruning. Do not let5. To develop an espalier, ran or other
pruning intimidate you. Summer pruning is mosttow-dimensional form, simply remove everything that
effective in controlling size. Reducing the tree'sdoesn't grow flat. Selectively thin and train left to
canopy in summer reduces the photosynthesis, whichspace what's left to space the fruiting wood.
reduces the tree's capacity for regrowth. Summer6.  Don't let pruning decisions inhibit you. There are
also reduces the total amount of food energy storedalways multiple acceptable decisions -no two people
in the root system in the fall to fuel growth in thewould prune a tree exactly the same. You learn to
spring. Winter pruning is effective in maintaining shapeprune by pruning!
of tree but stimulates vigorous regrowth. SummerTwo other important influences on tree size are
pruning preserves and stimulates development ofirrigation and fertilization practices. Fruit trees should
fruiting wood. Summer pruning is actually best donenot be grown with lots of nitrogen and lots of water.
when thinning fruit. You can see where the fruit isSome people grow their fruit trees the same way
setting which helps you make better pruningthey do their lawn, then wonder why their trees are
decisions.so big and don't have fruit. High density planting and
Pruning Tips for New Fruit Trees:summer pruning enable you to plant more trees,
Pruning is most important in the first three yearssetting the stage for a longer harvest season.
because this is when the size and shape of tree isChoose early, mid and late ripening varieties to
established. When planting a bare root tree, cut sidemaximize your harvest.
limbs back by at least two thirds to promote